There’s a lot that goes into the processes of our knife heat treating services to ensure success. Quenching is the process of rapidly cooling down your knife. There are many techniques for creating a difference in properties, but most can be defined as either differential hardening or differential tempering. When using a furnace with a PID and controlled temperatures, high alloy steels are usually “easier” to heat treat. Typically they will likewise do the tempering and a cryo treatment as part of the expense. If you try to slide a file against your knife now, you’ll notice a distinctly different sound and your file should bounce right off—the metal is much harder than before. There really shouldn't be that many different answers since the heat treatment is pretty straight forward. The heat treating method is the same for knives made from forging, or stock removal. Hold the metal with a pair of metal tongs. That said, Natlek is correct that if you have not already annealed it, and you have a decent grinder to shape with, you can keep it cool during shaping to preserve the original hardness, and just give it a couple of temper cycles at 350-375F. You can bring it out of the heat to cool down periodically to lengthen this process and make it easier on the metal to undergo this transformation. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. Temper the knife blade by setting an oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit and allowing the blade to heat for 20 to 30 minutes. Whatever method you used,the final bevel should be on the blade and the surface should be brought to the desired finish. Stabilizing includes duplicated heating and cooling cycles at lower temperatures. Step 1: Surface and Edge Preparation. I also used a ground forge for the first forged knife I made. A search for "Don Fogg heat treat drum" should bring up a good few hits. For 1095 steel (as this blade is), this occurs at a temperature above 1335° F. ​​​ For those of you that don’t have a forge and don’t want to get into that side of things yet, it’s a small expense to guarantee a proper job! When this procedure is total the steel is incredibly difficult however extremely breakable. The best advice that I can give is to go to Alpha Knife Supply and look under their knife steel selections. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Farner now runs the heat treat department, as well as serves the custom knife makers. You can either prime your bucket of oil by dipping some hot scrap metal like rebar in, or you can dip the tip of your knife into the oil and wait for the flames to die out. If you shaped your knife with an anvil and forge you’ve already used heat treating to make the steel soft enough to hammer into shape. For simplicity sake cool to at least 150F before tempering. After you’ve cut your blank and possibly done some initial grinding your knife is all set for the heat dealing with procedure. I think I probably did ok-ish. Please refer to the instructions for heat treating your particular steel. Essentially what occurs is your knife is put in a unique oven that heats up the metal to a specific temperature level (based upon the kind of steel). Don’t stick the blade in all at once though. That said, it’s also going to make it a lot harder to file or sand down, so make sure you’re happy with your knife before you treat it. Right now, you are reading the best singular knifemaker's website ever made on our planet. I just started playing around with knife-making with some truck leaf spring.I think I have the gist on how to quench and heat-treat for a serviceable knife (time will tell).A Marine friend of mine asked if I could make him a SUPER HEAVY EOD-style knife. The steel becomes nonmagnetic at the Curie point. Differential heat treatment (also called selective heat treatment or local heat treatment) is a technique used during heat treating to harden or soften certain areas of a steel object, creating a difference in hardness between these areas. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, Essential Knife Care and Maintenance Tips, The Only Article On Knife Grinds You’ll Ever Need, The “Patina” Explained and a Guide to Do It Yourself. Turns out, there are lots of places that will do your heat treating for you. It alone is what determines whether or not your knife will hold up under abuse, shatter when dropped, or bend like a pretzel when hacking on an … After it sits in the oil for 30 seconds to a minute, you can dip it in some water to bring down the temperature enough to hold. You can find heat treating information listed there, however, my gut feeling is that S30V does not heat treat … Final note: heat treating your steel is meant to harden it significantly. Heat-treating D2 tool steel involves multiple steps. Some heat deals are basic enough that you can do it yourself. I don't work with S30V or 440C so I was a little hesitant about answering your post. Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc ; heat treating a long blade heat treating a long blade. There are 2 or 3 guys who have used my HT forges to make knives to sell while they gather the money to upgrade to an electric HT oven. For O1, hold it in there for another 4 minutes or so. Required fields are marked *. 1095 is the first choice of many knife makers because its easy to grind and hold a great edge. This procedure decreases the brittleness of the steel. You must refer to the directions for heat treating your particular type of steel. The above is from Alpha Knife Supply in the US, we have just converted the Fahrenheit to Celcius. Tempering includes warming the knife to lower temperature levels (400-degree variety) a number of times. Your email address will not be published. Heat treatment refers to the process where softer steel is hardened so that it stands up to use as a knife blade. If you would rather refrain from doing this by yourself, there are numerous businesses that will do the heat reward service for you. Bos handed down the heat treat role to Paul Farner, after successfully teaching him the ins and outs of the business for over 10 years. Knife heat treating, also known as knife tempering, is the ideal way to create a final product that seamlessly blends the above characteristics for a safe and effective cutting implement. How to know how much to charge for your knifes, Scrap Metal Art use for Interior Designing, From Scrap Metal Art Ideas To Intricate Works Of Art, Say Bye-bye To Costly Weld Repairs With 100% WPS Compliance, Welding Table for Woodworkers: Metal Base Coffee Table, Welding Automation: Comparing Investment Costs To Direct Labor Costs Is Not Enough, The making of ‘Laulupuut’ welded sculpture, Standards provide basis for the whole welding industry. There are those who want you to believe the only way to achieve a good heat treat is by using a temperature regulated heat treating oven, soaking for 15.7 minutes, normalized 2.3 times, and then quenched in park's knife heat treating oil raised to exactly 134.6 degrees Fahrenheit. Veteran knife makers will tell you to use dedicated heat treat quench oil to get better results. Normalizing your knife reduces the chance of warping, cracking, and the overall stress of this change in temperature. The point of normalizing the blade is to stabilize the structure of the steel, so that when quenching is performed, a certain degree of warping can be avoided. However, that doesn’t mean you only have 1 second to get from your heat source to your quench. Having a bigger window for success means you can do this with simple tools and still get a good result. My max is 4 knives at a time. You’ve even taken advantage of heat treating if you began by removing material from a piece of milled stock. You want to heat up the oil a bit to reduce the severe reaction and temperature shock of the knife. Satiating is normally carried out in oil, however, can likewise be carried out in the water. He said it should be heat treated like W-1. Heat treating of knives is a two step process that includes hardening and tempering. After the steel is warmed it is then either satiated or delegated air cool. Hi folks. It was almost certainly annealed, or softened, before it came to you. Then, slowly lower a bit more of the knife in and wait for the flames to die down again. If heat treating multiple knives I add 3 mins of time for each knife (two minutes to plate quench the knife, 1 minute to get the next one out of the oven). This procedure is variously based upon the kind of steel your blade is made from. Have a magnet nearby that you can use to test the polarity of the knife—if the magnet still has pull, your knife has to go in longer. The basic process is as follows: heat your forge up to the critical point for your steel (+1450°F depending on your steel). We first normalize the blade by heating it to a non-magnetic capacity. Ideally, your oil should be at least 150°F degrees before you do the full submerge (stick your finger in the oil, it should feel like hot tap water at that temperature). Step 6 Scratching your knife blade with a file is one method for measuring results. Tempering at a higher temperature (say, 650°F) will result in a slightly softer yet tougher blade, whereas tempering at lower temperatures (375°F) will yield a harder blade that can maintain a sharper edge. Alternatively, check out this simple Soup Can Forge build that you can do yourself. After you’ve cut your blank and possibly done some initial grinding your knife is all set for the heat dealing with procedure. Now that you’ve heated and quenched your knife, you’re left with something hard and ugly [insert cheap penis reference here]. The definition of heat treatment: a combination of heating and cooling operations, timed and applied to a metal in a solid state in a way that will produce desired properties. We cannot heat treat High Speed Steels (M2, M42 etc) We currently run our heat treatment 1 day per week, either Wednesday or Thursday depending on other workload factors at the forge. The steel has a high chromium content (11 to 13 percent) and relatively high amounts of molybdenum (.7 to 1.2 percent), vanadium (1.1 percent), cobalt (1 percent) and other elements. Please exercise extreme caution in this part of the process! As soon as once again, this depends upon the kind of steel. Heat the metal to non-magnetic (the critical point). That said, use this as a, The basic process is as follows: heat your forge up to the, Making a gorgeous handmade custom camping knife, Crafting a full-blown kitchen knife from scratch, A guide to building a custom chef’s knife for the kitchen, How to make a hand-powered charcoal forge, How to make a knife handle out of birch bark and antler, © 2017 I Made A Knife! Heat dealing with the steel on your knife blade is among the most crucial actions in producing and developing your knife. The long version: (more detailed info on heat treatment and why you should do it this way) Simple carbon steels are popular with knife makers due to ease of heat treatment. Once it’s submerged, swish it slowly side-to-side horizontally as it cools. Yes, steel changes color as it is heated. Prepare a bucket of oil (vegetable, motor oil, doesn’t matter) that you can dip your knife into. OPTIONAL: instead of heating your blade straight from room temperature up to its critical point, some knife makers “normalize” the blade once or twice to help warm up the metal up before going all the way. Two quarts should be enough and you should have it in a metal bucket or a large coffee can—something that won’t melt. Now clean the blade off with some soapy water and coarse steel wool or sanding paper. This is done by heat treating. When the steel hits that golden straw color, you know you nailed it. Most agree that the steel really needs to be cooled off at a high rate, like 1 to 2 seconds and, that is absolutely true. Without cryo the austenitizing temperature should be no higher than 1875°F. How to easily heat treat 1095 high carbon steel. The next action is called “Tempering”. Requires a VERY fast move from the heat to the oil, and requires a VERY fast oil to get full hardness. There are many ways to heat treat your blade and it will vary with the steel you’ve chosen as well as the equipment you have at your disposal. You can make a “good” knife out of it, but it is hard to make a “great” knife … That said, use this as a guide to heat treating, but not a verbatim blow-by-blow. Your email address will not be published. Mar 21, 2019 - How to Heat Treat a Knife [simplest Method Possible]: Heat treating is undoubtedly the most important part of knife making. There are two primary ways that a steel can become nonmagnetic: 1) transforming to … There are likewise other procedures that can be done such as Normalizing and Cryo Treatment. While others are intricate and not quickly done. Once they do, slowly lower the rest (it wouldn’t be a bad idea to have a fire extinguisher or a powdered fire retardant handy). Temper a knife blade in a conventional kitchen oven. Nope! You can really see a knife maker’s creativity shine when it comes to constructing a forge. Non-magnetic simply means it’s reached its critical point where the metal is so hot that it loses its polarity. To do this, heat up your knife to a dull cherry colour and let it cool back to black outside the furnace. Without this step, the steel would be too soft to retain an edge for long. Throughout this procedure the steel goes through modifications: The steel ends up being non-magnetic, the carbon enters into service and combines with the steel, the crystalline structure of the steel modifications. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. You could accomplish this by holding the knife over a fire, hot coals, or using a blowtorch, it really doesn't matter. Cryo includes making use of liquid nitrogen to solidify the steel even further. This is just left of scale and built up carbon that we’ll scrape off shortly. Heat to 1500, soak 10 minutes. There are alternative grades that have more desirable properties, in my opinion, such as CPM-154 for better corrosion resistance, 10V/Vanadis 8/K390 for better edge retention, or CPM CruWear for better … This procedure is variously based upon the kind of steel your blade is made from. Definitely, you can do this however depending upon the kind of steel it can be a complicated procedure and will need the purchase of extra devices. Give yourself a pat on the back. The extra carbon makes heat treating more complex. When your knife reaches the critical point, quench it in the oil. For O1, hold it in there for another 4 minutes or so. The process above is a proven way to harden these materials. The precut knife blanks which we sell are all 1095 high carbon steel. By backyardsmith, October 20, 2006 in Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc. Heat dealing with the steel on your knife blade is among the most crucial actions in producing and developing your knife. Heat evenly to 1475F for 10 minutes then immediately quench in fast oil (fast enough to cool the steel through the 1200F-1000F in less than.5 seconds). The next step of tempering the knife will heat it back up again, albeit at a lower temperature, to make it a little tougher and less fragile. Be VERY careful handling the blade as it is extremely brittle at this point—treat it like it’s made of glass. Thanks for reaching out! I dug a hole in our fire pit, stuck a black iron pipe in it and added a $5 hair dryer from the thrift store to the other end and built a fire on top of the hole. Apply the heat, either by putting the metal into the forge or oven, or by heating it with the torch. This is useful if your steel requires particular heat treating instructions. If your blade starts to glow yellow, it’s too hot. The knife blade is then left to 'thaw' to room … 9. At Clarke Knives we heat treat most grades of knife steels, both Carbon, Stainless & Damascus, up to a maximum length of 500mm (20″). Try Google-ing “heat treat knife your city” and go from there. With the torch, keep the metal in the hottest part of … Learn how your comment data is processed. Although he has retired, Bos remains an intricate part of Buck's heat treat protocol. There are many great tutorials online for creating your own forge (see here, here, or here), but the general idea is to create an environment that you can heat up to above 1450°F and hold there while you wash your knife in heat until it’s non-magnetic. I spent some time trying to make something smaller that would work for knives-only. On this website, you will see many hundreds of defined knife terms, detailed descriptions and information on heat treating and cryogenic processing, on handles and blades, on stands and sheaths, and on knife types from hunting and utility to military, counterterrorism, and collection. Other steels like the 1095 can be quenched the second they hit critical. Using a pair of industrial sized tongs, stick your knife in the heat until it’s a consistent cherry red (sometimes 10-15 minutes). Heat the metal to non-magnetic (the critical point). To heat treat steel, I heat it up beyond “cherry red” to glowing red. The more advanced heat treat recipe including Cryo for higher HRC: Heat to 1560 F(849 C) and let come to temperature for 5 mins; Heat to 1975 F (1079 C) and hold for 15 … Because commercial forges are a bit cost-prohibitive, DIYers are creating forges out of firebricks, firepits, BBQs, coffee cans, and much more. It is not yet appropriate for use as a knife. This is how I did the heat treatment for my first few knives as well, except I used mesquite charcoal from the store. The preferred method in the community is a homemade 2-brick forge supplied with heat by a torch. I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Once the 1975 degree temp has been reached, I wait until just before the timer expires to open the door and insert the knives. Other steels like the 1095 can be quenched the second they hit critical. There are many ways to heat treat your blade and it will vary with the steel you’ve chosen as well as the equipment you have at your disposal. A recommended heat treatment would be 1850-1900°F for 30 minutes, plate quench, cryo, and temper 300-500°F. Share ... Long answer : You may find it easier to build a temporary "Sword forge " for heat treating. Touching a magnet to your knife is the quick and dirty way to gauge temperature, but you can find laser thermometers or heat-resistant thermometers to get a more accurate idea of how hot your blade might be. Have your container of room-temperature oil or water available for cooling. A straw golden brown is 400 degrees, dark brown is 500, deep blue/purple is 550, light blue 600, and so on. Have a magnet nearby that you can use to test the polarity of the knife—if the magnet still has pull, your knife has to go in longer. Done by heat treating forging, or stock removal flames to die down again your heat treating your type... And cryo treatment as part of the process: heat treating a long blade treating... 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